By Max Milano (Travel Writer & Photographer)
It’s late at night, and darkness engulfs us as I drive southbound on Highway AP-7 between Barcelona and Tarragona. I am thinking of the Roman Empire because Highway AP-7 follows the ancient Roman road, the Via Augusta, which once linked Cadiz with Rome.
Traffic is light, but mosquitoes swarm the car, challenging visibility. Our windshield wiper fluid is exhausted, leaving smeared bugs obstructing the view.
Every few kilometers, electronic signs in Catalan, French, English, and Castilian warn about highway robbers.
I smirk, imagining Roman travelers worrying about highwaymen as they rode or walked along the Via Augusta from milestone to milestone on what some Romans called “the wall on the ground” that connected every corner of the empire to Rome and back.
The Via Augusta brought civilization to Iberia, as Roman Civitas (Cities) began to be constructed to link their initial beachhead in a Greek colony just north of present-day Barcelona (Empúries), to their newly conquered possessions down in Cartagena and Cadiz.
A sign announces a pit stop to view the “Pont del Diable,” the Devil’s Bridge. There is no mention of its Roman origins, Emperor Augustus’s involvement, or its 2,000-year history, just “The Devil’s Bridge,” a name very fitting for a robbery spot under this night’s cloak.
The Devil’s Bridge rest area is small, featuring a balcony that offers views of the Roman Aqueduct. It’s pitch black, and one might feel the devil lurking among the pines and dry shrubs on a moonlit night. It’s too perfect for an ambush, so we decide not to get out of the car and press on.
We’ve faced highway robbers on the AP-7 freeway before, between the French border and Barcelona, after a trip to Andorra a couple years back.
That night, around two in the morning, a car aggressively passed us and stopped on the freeway about fifty meters ahead of our car. I slowed to a crawl, but the bandit car began reversing toward us aggressively. It was a small Fiat or Renault with four men inside. I was driving a rented Mercedes-Benz SUV we’d picked up at El Prat and knew that we could easily outrun them, but what if the bandits had guns?
I had to stop. The bandits blocked the freeway, dead in front of me. For a moment, nothing. Then they hit reverse again, tearing backward against traffic, fast and reckless, like they meant to end it all by crashing against us.
“Should I gun it?” I asked my wife, thinking of bypassing the bandits and gunning down the freeway. “No way!” she yelled, pointing to a freeway exit ahead that, by some miracle, still stood between us and the reversing bandidos. I put the SUV in sport mode and sped toward the exit. My tires screamed as I took the corkscrew exit at full speed, leaving the reversing bad hombres back on the freeway.
We found ourselves in a dark and quiet Barcelona suburb. Roads were narrow and cars were parked on both sides, but I continued at high speed, taking random turns to shake any potential tails. After a while, our breathing and speed slowed down, and we drove back to the Ibis hotel using street roads. All was quiet and dark out in suburbia, which in that part of Barcelona consisted of stocky ten-story housing blocks and congested street parking.
Back at our hotel, we read about the gangs of the AP-7 Freeway. We had a lucky escape, evidently.
Judging by the electronic signs on our current stretch of road, looks like the gangs have expanded their territory to include the Barcelona-Tarragona leg of the AP-7. This makes me decide to only visit the Roman Aqueduct bridge during the day.
“We’ll come back tomorrow,” I murmur in the dark as the mosquito paste covering our windshield makes the landscape gloomier than it should be. We speed down the old Via Augusta, where Roman legions once marched fifty kilometers a day. We go much faster, but there’s no glory in it. Just black clouds of mosquitoes rising from the swamps and the dark hills pressing in, turning the night heavy and mean.
The Romans Were Here, But Did You Know It?
I’m embarrassed by how often I’d driven between Barcelona and Valencia without knowing about the towns in between, never mind the Romans, until a chance pit stop in Tarragona years ago opened my eyes to one of Spain’s most spectacular Roman cities.
Spain’s travel marketing focuses heavily on clichés: beaches, sangria, paella, some ruins, churches, cathedrals, museums, and castles, but rarely Roman ruins. Therefore, few Americans realize Spain is a treasure trove of Roman history.
That’s why we decided to return to Tarragona this summer to revisit its extraordinary Roman legacy. It is a UNESCO World Heritage site due to its abundance of Roman archaeological sites, some even beneath a shopping mall!
A Bridge Too Far
It’s daytime now, and we are hiking through the brush after parking at a trailhead for the Roman Aqueduct Bridge of Les Ferreres, the Devil’s Bridge.
We can’t see the bridge yet, and the climb is steep but shaded by ponderosa trees. The bridge was built during Augustus’s reign and stood for eons, supplying water to Tarragona until the 17th century.
We reach the bridge’s foot. It feels like stepping into an Asterix comic. I half-expect Roman soldiers to march down the ravine, their caligae kicking up dust and lorica segmentata gleaming in the sun.
The aqueduct rises imposingly, blending into the landscape with mathematical precision. Its perfect slope brings water in natural harmony with the landscape through gravity, a testament to Roman engineering, which worked with nature rather than against it.
The History Of Roman Tarragona
Tarragona, a jewel of Roman Spain, known as Tarraco in ancient times, was a strategic military and administrative hub. Julius Caesar himself walked its streets. In 45 BC, after his victory in the civil war against Pompey’s legions, Caesar granted Tarraco the status of a colony, honoring it with the name Colonia Julia Urbs Triumphalis Tarraco. This elevated the city’s prestige and brought an influx of settlers and development.
The Roman walls of Tarragona, still standing today, were first constructed in the 3rd century BC and later reinforced under Caesar’s orders. These walls encircle the old city, and within these walls, monumental structures rose, showcasing Roman grandeur.
The Forum was the heart of Tarraco, a bustling center of politics, commerce, and religion. Here, temples dedicated to Roman gods and administrative buildings were erected.
Nearby, the Circus, one of the best-preserved in the Western Roman Empire, hosted thrilling chariot races. Its remains stretch over 300 meters, allowing visitors to imagine the roar of the crowd and the thunder of hooves.
Overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, the Amphitheater is another of Tarraco’s masterpieces. Built in the 2nd century AD, it was a stage for gladiatorial combat and public spectacles. The structure’s setting against the azure backdrop adds to its dramatic history.
The construction of these monuments was not mere vanity. They symbolized Roman power and civilization, blending seamlessly with the natural landscape. Tarraco was more than a city; it was a beacon of Roman culture and ingenuity and trade, where the echoes of Caesar’s ambitions still resonate in the ancient stones to this day.
Exploring Tarragona’s Roman Ruins
Tarragona is a treasure trove of Roman ruins but most of the archeological sites are scattered around the city and the nearby countryside, so we’ve assembled an itinerary to help you cover all the essential sites in a one or two-day trip.
Simply follow the list below, in any particular order, based on your time constraints and mode of transportation. You won´t be disappointed. As a matter of fact, you´ll be amazed.
The Roman Forum
Start with the Roman Forum, the heart of ancient Tarragona. The Forum was the administrative and religious center of ancient Tarraco, where political and social life thrived. Today, you can wander through the remains of temples, administrative buildings, and public spaces while surrounded by the current residents of Tarragona, who lazily view the 2000-year-old Roman columns outside their balconies with mild boredom.
Tower of the Scipios
The Tower of the Scipios is a funerary monument built in the 1st century AD. This tower stands tall as a reminder of the prominent Roman family, the Scipios, who played crucial roles in Roman history as founders of Tarraco. More recent archeological studies have shed some doubts about the tower’s origins (it still places it as built in the first century), but it may have been dedicated to Roman gods instead of a pair of citizens.
The Arch of Berà
The spectacular Arch of Berà is a must-see. This triumphal arch on the Via Augusta was erected in honor of Emperor Augustus in the first century. Its simple yet elegant design symbolizes Roman engineering prowess, the emperor’s influence over the region, and the willingness of wealthy locals to seek favors with the powers that be back in Rome.
The Villas
Outside the city, explore the Roman villas scattered across Tarragona’s countryside. The Villa of Els Munts in Altafulla is particularly impressive. This luxurious villa showcases the opulence of Roman aristocracy, featuring intricate mosaics and well-preserved rooms.
Downhill from the villa, a fabulous beach hosts the remains of a Roman seawater pool.
The Circus
Back in Tarragona, visit the Roman Circus, where chariot races once thrilled ancient spectators. The Circus, one of the best-preserved in the Western Roman Empire, stretches over 300 meters long. Imagine the roar of the crowds and the thunder of hooves as chariots raced around the track.
The Roman Amphitheater
Adjacent to the Circus is the amphitheater, a magnificent arena overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Gladiators once fought here, battling each other and wild beasts for the entertainment of the masses. The amphitheater’s setting is breathtaking, with the azure sea as a backdrop to its ancient stones. Outside the amphitheater is a beach that hosts, during the summer, plenty of bikini-clad sunbathers lying on the sand next to 2000 years of history.
The Roman Walls of Tarragona
One of Tarragona’s most impressive features is its Roman Walls. These ancient fortifications, dating back to the 3rd century BC, were built to protect the city from invaders. The walls stretch for over a kilometer, with sections that reach heights of up to 12 meters. Walking along these walls, you can almost feel the presence of Roman soldiers who once stood guard, keeping watch over the city. The walls are a testament to Roman engineering and their strategic military prowess.
Roman Ruins Beneath a Shopping Mall
A surprising and fascinating aspect of Tarragona is the Roman ruins beneath the city’s largest shopping mall. At the Parc Central Shopping Center, you can explore ancient Roman remains while indulging in modern retail therapy. The ruins include parts of a villa and a Roman Forum, where citizens once gathered for markets and public events. This unique juxtaposition of ancient history and contemporary life offers a tangible connection to Tarragona’s rich past, making it a must-visit for history enthusiasts and curious shoppers alike.
The Centcelles Roman Ensemble
Just outside Tarragona, this hidden gem offers a glimpse into Roman life during the late Roman Empire, around the time of Constantine. The main attraction, a grand mausoleum, boasts one of the oldest and most intricate mosaic domes in the Roman world, which is not only unique in Spain, but in the whole of Europe.
The dome mosaics depict hunting scenes and possibly early Christian themes, as well as images of bishops. A great deal of mystery surrounds the mosaics, with some archaeologists theorizing that they depict the wealthy owners of the villa. In contrast, others believe they may depict early Christian bishops or saints.
Walking through Centcelles, you feel the weight of centuries, the grandeur of Roman art, and the tranquility of the Catalan countryside.
Medieval Tarragona and the Expulsion of the Jews
Tarragona’s history extends beyond the Romans, obviously. Its medieval quarter is a maze of narrow streets and charming squares. Here, you can find the remnants of the Jewish quarter, once a vibrant community until the Jews were expelled during the reign of Isabella I of Castile.
One can visit the ruins of the old synagogue, a poignant reminder of this chapter in Spanish history.
Tips for Visiting
Consider purchasing a multi-entry ticket to explore the various Roman sites. This ticket offers great value and immerses you in Tarragona’s rich Roman history, eliminating the need to worry about individual entry fees.
Tarragona is a city where the past and present blend seamlessly. From the grandeur of the Roman ruins to the charm of its medieval quarter, Tarragona offers a journey through time. You will be reminded that history is not just in books but also in the stones beneath our feet, particularly in Tarragona.
Stay tuned to GuiriGuru for more Spain explorations and expat tips.
Max Milano is a travel writer and photographer based in Los Angeles, California, and Valencia, Spain. His latest photography book, Mexico City Noir, Life Under The Volcanoes, is Available on Amazon. His photographs are available at MaxMilanoPix.
