Welcome to Benidorm: Purgatory or Paradise?
By Max Milano (Travel Writer & Photographer)
Benidorm is the beach resort that put Spanish overtourism on the map before it was trendy. It has a reputation for being a cultural wasteland (think geriatric British larger louts and kebab and curry shops under the Spanish sun), so we went there to find out if its reputation is warranted.
Could it be that Benidorm's reputation is unwarranted? I've heard from plenty of Spanish tourists from Madrid who love Benidorm. Could thousands of Madrileños that visit Benidorm every year be wrong?
So, let’s find out if Benidorm is a misunderstood gem or if it deserves its legendary reputation.
The Cross of Benidorm
A large metal cross overlooks Benidorm, perched atop a hill with spectacular views of the bay and the city’s skyline. This is the Cross of Benidorm. It was put up here by a local priest in 1961, who was shocked by the number of rowdy tourists arriving at this former sleepy fishing village on La Costa Blanca.
Maybe it was due to all the British tourists frolicking in that new invention, the Bikini, or the amount of day drinking, but the priest threatened the mayor with putting up a sign at the entrance of town that said, "Welcome to Hell."
A compromise was reached, so instead of that sign, we got this cross, which was carried up here by a procession of local fishermen led by the aforementioned priest.
The priest hoped that putting up the cross here would help counteract Benidorm’s reputation as a "frivolous" town...and we all know how well that turned out.
A Tale of Two Beaches
Benidorm, like most invaded cities, is divided into two distinct sections: Sunrise Beach and Sunset Beach. These two areas offer vastly different experiences.
Sunrise Beach: The British Invasion
Sunrise Beach is the go-to destination for British tourists. This area is infamous for its rowdy, party-centric vibe. The streets and beachfront promenade are lined with pubs, bars, and clubs, where the music is loud, and the drinks flow freely. From mid-morning until the early morning hours, you'll find groups of sunburnt British tourists enjoying the local lager and often indulging in what some have called drunken and loutish behavior.
“Welcome To Hell
The Priestly man's sign said,
"Let's put up a cross instead."
Don't let Benidorm get a bad reputation,
For frivolity and fornication.
We all know how well that went,
Because the lobster red are all hell-bent,
On their mobility scooters,
Soaking up the Costa del...
"Give us another San Miguel,
Again and again, till we drop dead.
Give us another San Miguel...”
Sunrise Beach's reputation precedes it. Many come here specifically to let loose, embracing the wild atmosphere. Stag and hen parties are common, contributing to the somewhat chaotic scene.
The scene on Sunset Beach has a definitive whiff of post-Brexit, end-of-empire decline. Mobility scooters crowd the sidewalks, zipping geriatric punters to and fro, like a seaside nursing home with a Las Vegas-style all-you-can-eat $5.99 early bird buffet. Shirts are rare, and tattoos on lobster-red sunburns are the day's look.
Sunset Beach: A Spanish Retreat
In stark contrast, Sunset Beach offers a more tranquil and family-friendly environment. This area is favored by Spanish tourists who prefer a quieter, more relaxed vacation. The beach here is a lot quieter, with golden sands and calm, clear waters, making it perfect for families with young children.
Sunset Beach is dotted with cafes and restaurants where one can enjoy a leisurely meal or coffee while taking in the stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea. The pace of life here is slower, and the focus is on relaxation and quality family time.
Benidorm Old Town: A Step Back in Time
Nestled between Sunrise Beach and Sunset Beach is Benidorm’s Old Town, a charming area steeped in history. This part of the city used to be an old Moorish town, and its rich heritage is still evident in its layout. The cobblestone streets wind through the town, lined with shops and restaurants that offer a taste of authentic Spanish culture.
One of the highlights of Benidorm Old Town is the stunning views it offers at sunset. The old Moorish fortress that used to protect the town is now a viewing point, where you can admire the Mediterranean Sea at your feet and watch the sun set over Benidorm’s skyline. Sunsets here are nothing short of spectacular, with the sky painted in hues of orange and pink, casting a magical glow over the town.
In the early evening, the atmosphere in Benidorm´s Old Town becomes truly enchanting. This is the time when elderly Spanish couples come out for their evening walk, reclaiming their town from the tourists. It's a heartwarming sight, as they stroll hand in hand through the streets, greeting each other with smiles and nods. The town takes on a different character, becoming more authentic and charming.
For an extra special experience, visit one of the crusty tapas bars in the old town. These establishments are frequented by the aforementioned local elderly couples, who come here to enjoy tapas and drinks in a cozy, welcoming environment. The food is delicious, the atmosphere is convivial, and, more importantly, cheap (locals´ prices), making it the perfect place to soak in the local culture.
Exploring the Culinary Delights of Benidorm Old Town
Benidorm Old Town is no slouch when it comes to foodies, especially if you have a taste for authentic Spanish seafood. Fresh fish, prawns, steamed mussels, and other delicacies from the sea are prepared in traditional Spanish styles, offering a true taste of the Mediterranean.
The shops in the old town offer a range of local products, from handmade crafts to gourmet food items, making it the perfect place to pick up souvenirs or gifts.
Making the Most of Your Visit to Benidorm
Whether you're drawn to the lively nightlife of Sunrise Beach, the tranquil retreat of Sunset Beach, or the historical charm of Benidorm Old Town, there's something for everyone in this most maligned of Spanish beach resorts. Here are a few tips to help you make the most of your visit:
Plan Your Activities: If you enjoy a good party, spend your nights at Sunrise Beach, but be sure to take a day to relax and recover at Sunset Beach. Balance your time between the two to experience the best of both worlds.
Explore the Old Town: Dedicate an afternoon to exploring Benidorm Old Town. Walk through the cobblestone streets, visit the shops, and enjoy a meal at one of the local restaurants. Don't miss the viewing point for a breathtaking sunset experience.
Try the Local Cuisine: Make sure to sample the local dishes, especially the seafood. Visit a tapas bar for an authentic taste of Spanish culture, and don't forget to try the local wines and beers.
Respect the Local Culture: While it's important to have fun, remember to respect the local culture and traditions. Be mindful of your behavior, especially in quieter areas like Sunset Beach and the old town.
Capture the Moments: Benidorm offers countless photo opportunities, from the stunning sunsets to the lively streets of Sunrise Beach. Keep your camera handy to capture the memories of your trip.
Parting Thoughts
Benidorm is a destination that truly has something for everyone. Don’t let its reputation keep you from exploring its charms. The thousands of Spanish tourists visiting Benidorm every year while avoiding the British side like the plague can´t be wrong!
Stay tuned to GuiriGuru for more Spain explorations and expat tips.
Max Milano is a travel writer and photographer based in Los Angeles, California, and Valencia, Spain. His latest photography book, Mexico City Noir, Life Under The Volcanoes, is Available on Amazon. Bookings and Prints of his photographs are available at MaxMilanoPix.