A Day Trip To Tabarca Island
By Max Milano (Travel Writer & Photographer)
From the Road to Damascus to an island paradise in the Mediterranean, because even Saints need to relax once in a while. Welcome to Tabarca Island (once known as Saint Paul’s Island, as it was rumored that St. Paul stopped there on his travails), the perfect antidote to the hustle and bustle of Alicante and Benidorm.
When I heard about a tiny Island on the Mediterranean Sea, off the coast of Alicante, that didn´t allow cars (because you can walk around it in a couple of hours) and was surrounded by the crystalline waters of a marine sanctuary, whose fifty permanent inhabitants still live behind the protective walls built in the 18th century as protection against Barbary pirates, I knew I had to go and spend a day there. It sounded exactly like my kind of place.
A Day Trip To Tabarca Island
We're on the ferry from Santa Pola to Tabarca. The sea is not particularly rough, but not totally calm, either. My kind of sea. Perfect for sitting out on the front of the jumpy catamaran to enjoy the salty breeze and the occasional splash of sea foam. Tabarca Island reveals itself slowly. First, just a flat, long rock on the horizon, then a low skyline. A walled Mediterranean town, topped by a church and a stocky fort, set apart from the main town on what looks like scrubland. The stone fort proudly waves the Spanish flag, a rarity in these Valencian parts, where they display Valencian flags, with their jeweled blue and red hilt and yellow and red alternating stripes of the Crown of Aragon, even at the local supermarket.
It's exciting to step off the ferry and into the village. We penetrate the town's main portal and appreciate how thick the surrounding walls are. No pirates are getting in here uninvited. We make a beeline for a cafe and sit under the awning because lightning is flashing above us at steady intervals, and the rumble of thunder is getting more and more frequent. Soon, the heavens open, and the cobblestoned streets are flooded with a stream of clear water heading toward the sea. We huddle under our awning with coffee and beer on tap to wait for the storm to pass.
Sea Wall. Tabarca Island, Alicante, Spain.
A Lost Baby Seagul
Local fried sardines are served and washed down with more beer and coffee until the storm ceases. I feel confident enough to explore the town's walls without fear of getting fried by lightning. Some of the lightning strikes during the storm had felt too close for comfort. Atop the sea wall, we get a fantastic view of the town, the church, the pier, and several ferries coming and going from the mainland to Tabarca.
A multitude of sea birds fly overhead, screeching and making aerial acrobatics, but one constant chirping closer to the ground catches our attention. Then we see it. It's a baby seagull, tiny and fluffy and defenseless. It walks with poor balance along the sea wall, stumbling every few steps. "Where's your mommy?" we ask no one in particular. Stray cats abound on the island, and the poor baby seagull looks more like cat lunch every passing minute. We stand around until the baby seagull disappears behind a large bush. Maybe he has a nest in there.
The Wildlands
We decide to visit the uninhabited side of the island. The only structures on this site are the boxy fort with its Spanish flag and a small cemetery on the island's far end. In between are badlands and an amazing rocky shoreline of high cliffs overlooking coves dotted with grottos. The sea is deep blue further out, almost purple, but it gets clearer closer to the island until it gleams aquamarine blue, like a tourist brochure photo. Monk seals once rested on the beaches below, but no more. We see a family of seagulls taking three baby seagulls for a bath on the rocky shore. The two most robust babies jump on a wet rock while the runt falters in the water until, with great effort, it manages to join its brothers up on the slippery rock. I couldn't live here due to the constant baby seagull dramas. There are too many abandonment issues for these birds. I assume.
The hike around the empty side of the island is magnificent. You can find your own spot and look at the sea, the seabirds, and the sea crashing against the grottos. We see our ferry out at sea, heading our way, and walk back to the pier to catch it. The island day trip is a 10 out of 10.
Getting There: Ferry from Santa Pola
Head southbound from Alicante or Benidorm to the port town of Santa Pola, where several ferries and water taxies await to whisk you away every hour during the peak summer months. The journey takes about 30 minutes and offers stunning views of the Mediterranean coast.
Prices are typically around 15 to 20 euros for a round trip and you can check the latest schedules and fares online but you can also buy the tickets right from one of the several kiosks at the pier.
Parking in Santa Pola
Paid parking can be found at the port, right next to the kiosks selling ferry tickets to Tabarca Island. Plan extra time if you park in town and walk over to the port.
Spend The Night At Tabarca
While Tabarca is small, there are a few charming accommodations to choose from. One notable option is the Hotel Boutique Isla de Tabarca, offering beautiful sea views and comfortable amenities. Booking in advance is crucial, especially during peak tourist season, as these limited accommodations fill up quickly.
Food on Tabarca
Tabarca’s culinary scene is centered around fresh seafood, with several restaurants scattered across the island. One of the most recommended is Restaurante La Almadraba, known for its local dishes like caldero (a fish stew). For a more casual dining experience, try Bar Restaurante Don Jerónimo, which offers a variety of tapas and fresh salads. Most restaurants on the island are situated around the main square and along the waterfront, perfect for a meal with a view.
Things to Do on Tabarca
Tabarca Island is not just about relaxation. Start by exploring its fascinating history through a visit to the walls that surround the town. Within these walls, you’ll find well-preserved 18th-century buildings and the Church of San Pedro and San Pablo.
Nature lovers will enjoy a walk around the uninhabited side of the island to explore gorgeous coves and rocky outcrops. You can also snorkel in the clear waters of the marine reserve and explore the island’s several grottos, most only accessible by swimming or kayaking.
Wildlife and Conservation
The waters around Tabarca were declared a protected marine reserve in 1986. The clear waters and rich seabed offer an exceptional experience for snorkeling and diving enthusiasts as well as birdwatchers.
A Glimpse into Tabarca’s History
The island was once a haven for Barbary pirates until Charles III of Spain fortified it and settled a small community here in the 18th century, whose descendants still inhabit the island today. The settlers all came from a Genovese colony called Tabarka in present day Tunisia, giving the island its current name.
Don´t miss this hidden gem on the Mediterranean Sea and discover that the Costa Blanca has much more to offer than sand, sea and cañas. Stay tuned to GuiriGuru.com for more Spain travel and expat survival tips.
Stay tuned to GuiriGuru for more Spain explorations and expat tips.
Max Milano is a travel writer and photographer based in Los Angeles, California, and Valencia, Spain. His latest photography book, Mexico City Noir, Life Under The Volcanoes, is Available on Amazon. Bookings and Prints of his photographs are available at MaxMilanoPix.