Cartagena Roman Spain: Carthage vs Rome
By Max Milano (Travel Writer & Photogaher)
I'm deep inside the ruins of the Roman Forum in Cartagena, Spain. This was New Carthage (Carthago Nova). The sight of 2000-year-old amphorae, mosaics, and Corinthian columns is mind-blowing. Ancient lewd graffiti on the walls reflects the phallocratic obsessions of the average classical Roman. Two stories above us, in the modern city, a Spanish waiter yells at someone in an even lewder tone, invoking the same phalluses that the classical Romans scratched in stone 2000 years ago. The more time changes, the more it stays the same.
We can see the heating furnaces for the Roman thermae, looking like brick pizza ovens. This system of ovens and ducts kept plunge pools heated (caldarium). Further away are cold plunge pools (frigidarium). Beyond the pools is a door leading to a well-preserved mosaic floor, with a headless statue of Augustus in a toga presiding over it. These are the remains of the local Curia. You'd have to go to Pompeii to find a place that immerses you so thoroughly in the classic Roman world as Cartagena.
As a California transplant to Spain, I mourn the fact that Spain lacks a proper coastal road like California's PCH. For some reason, the highway between Barcelona and Cadiz veers inland, skipping all the wonderful beach towns and coastal cities.
That's why, when road-tripping along Spain's Mediterranean coast, it's crucial to venture off the main freeways and explore these coastal towns and cities. Many people overlook the incredible treasures these places offer.
This coast, being Mediterranean, is adorned with garum ponds, and the ruins of Roman villas, temples, amphitheaters, and baths. And in the case of Cartagena, it's a testament to the remains of two mighty civilizations of the ancient world: first Carthage and then Rome. When exploring these lesser-known locations, you'll embark on a journey of discovery and adventure, uncovering the true hidden gems of the Spanish Mediterranean coast.
Carthage vs Rome
Cartagena was hard fought by the Romans during their quest to control the Iberian Peninsula during the Second Punic War. Founded by Hasdrubal after Carthage's defeat in Sicily in the First Punic War, the Romans faced Hannibal himself and almost total defeat before their semi-miraculous comeback during the Roman siege of Cartagena.
Cartagena, then a peninsula, was hemmed between the best natural port in the western Mediterranean and a tidal lagoon to its north. The Romans attacked the two main city walls while blockading the port with a fleet of longships. The Punic walls of Carthago Nova proved too high and well-defended to attack frontally. Using intelligence from fishermen, the Romans waited for low tide and sent 500 men wading through the lagoon to attack the Carthaginians from the north, where they weren't expected. Thus, Carthage's presence in Iberia ended forever.
By the time of Augustus, Carthago Nova was a prosperous city that helped project Roman power and control over the Western Mediterranean and all of Hispania. The town boasted marvelous theatres adorned with the finest marble imported from Rome. Such rich Roman presence is still here, sometimes just beneath one's feet, as in the remains of luxurious Roman villas, and sometimes soaring way above, as in the spectacular Roman Theatre, the remains of the Roman arena, and the hilltop forts and temples that dot the city.
Cartagena is a city coiled around itself. You may walk in a big circle to visit an ancient forum or the remains of a Roman road, only to realize you've just ended on the other side of the street.
At the center of town is Plaza San Francisco, shaded by massive Australian banyan trees with aerial roots, giving it an exotic, tropical feel reminiscent of a square in an old Brazilian town.
We find refuge in a cafe in San Francisco Square to escape the heat and watch a group of American expats take a large table near us. Watching them is like watching a Woody Allen movie set in Europe with a cast of neurotic WASP types.
I hear one of the American expats say, "My Spanish is not good enough for Spanish lessons."
Meanwhile, a young man in their group orders drinks in quite passable Spanish. I recognize the young man. We'd become temporary fellow explorers, as often happens when visiting a new Spanish city. He was with a young blonde woman that wore a summer dress and spewed a thick Long Island accent that one could hear over the hills.
We'd run into them at the Roman Theatre, then at the Punic walls, and at another cafe. We'd started nodding politely, fellow travelers acknowledging each other without starting a conversation.
A middle-aged couple joins the group of American expats. They look like they just stepped out of a yacht, of which there are many, right on the Cartagena harbor, about one block away.
"You don't have to order a Spanish omelet just because you're in Spain," I hear the young man tell his blonde girlfriend in a harsh tone. Is this how Woody Allen gets ideas for his scripts? Does he sit in cafes and scribble down what American expats in Europe say?
Cartagena, New Carthage's glow,
It wasn't that long ago,
When Hannibal faced Rome,
A mighty clash,
Nearly turned to Roman ash.
But the tide turned,
Through murky lakes of blood,
Legions forged their path,
To topple walls with wrath.
Iberia's sands, Now in Roman hands,
For the glory of the empire,
Their marbles dot the land,
And to this day,
The Roman tongue's at play.
A Walking Tour of Roman Cartagena
Here's a walkable itinerary for a Roman Cartagena tour we've put together, highlighting the main Roman sites. You can visit all of these sites in one day, all on foot, as they are all right in the center of town.
The Roman Theatre & Museum
Start at the spectacular Roman Theatre of Cartagena. Marvel at the well-preserved structure and imagine the grand performances that once took place here. Visit the attached museum for amazing Roman statuary and tablets.
Roman Forum
Walk to the Roman Forum of Cartagena, where you can explore ancient ruins, including Corinthian columns and mosaics. Feel the weight of history as you stand where Romans once gathered.
Roman Thermae (Baths)
Head to the Roman Baths. See the heating furnaces (caldarium) and cold plunge pools (frigidarium). Imagine the daily life of Romans as they relaxed here.
Curia
Visit the remains of the Curia with its beautiful mosaic floor and the headless statue of Augustus. Reflect on the political life of ancient Cartagena.
Decumanus Maximus (Roman Road)
Stroll along the Decumanus Maximus, the main Roman road. Observe the ancient pavement and envision the bustling street life of Carthago Nova.
Augusteum
Stop by the Augusteum, a temple dedicated to the imperial cult of Augustus. Appreciate the significance of imperial worship in Roman times.
Casa de la Fortuna
Explore Cartagena’s Casa de la Fortuna, a luxurious Roman villa. Admire the intricate mosaics and frescoes that adorned the homes of the wealthy.
Punic Wall
Visit the Punic Wall of Cartagena, the remnants of Carthaginian fortifications. Learn about the fierce battles fought between Carthage and Rome.
Conception Castle
End your tour at Cartagena’s Conception Castle, built over a system of Roman cisterns and the ruins of a Roman temple and a Moorish Alcazar. This medieval fort from the Reconquista era offers a panoramic view of Cartagena and insight into the city's layered history.
Take The Tourist Boat
Explore the best harbor in the western Mediterranean with a cruise on Cartagena's tourist boat. You can stop off at La Navidad Fort, which protected the entrance of the harbor from pirates and other attackers.
Each one of the sites in the itinerary above offers a glimpse into the grandeur and everyday life of ancient Roman Cartagena.
Stay tuned to GuiriGuru for more Spain explorations and expat tips.
Max Milano is a travel writer and photographer based in Los Angeles, California, and Valencia, Spain. His latest photography book, Mexico City Noir, Life Under The Volcanoes, is Available on Amazon. Bookings and Prints of his photographs are available at MaxMilanoPix.